Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
here's a picture for reference. In order the stock shine III, stock Varmillo, Vortex PBT double shot (obviously the space bar itself isn't double shot PBT because it doesn't have a legend on it but that's the set it came with) and front printed PBT. The two Vortex keycap sets were both bought here on massdrop.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPA2XxB62zagbQtlnYcgRuGW8fecCN0F26sIqpB
I've seen about 5-6 cases of someone getting getting the wrong stabilizers on their Varmilo keyboard, I'm just hoping mine comes with the costar stabilizers. I've seen some posts on Reddit that do indeed have the costar stabilizers so this is not happening to everyone.
Here's an example of a VA87MR that was posted on Reddit a few days ago that has the correct stabilizer under the space bar. They got this keyboard from the last VA87MR drop here on Massdrop. You should find out what Massdrop can do to help you because this is a mistake from the retailer. Varmilo boards are supposed to have costar stabilizers.
I had to pull the inserts up then rotate them to separate them from the wire. Afterwards there was just enough space between the plate and the board to pull the wire out from the bottom.
There are cutouts for costar stabilizers if you have any laying around.