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Product Description
A good pair of kitchen shears can save time and a whole lot of effort. This pair from Kanemoto is crafted with hammer-forged stainless steel blades with mild scalloping on one edge Read More
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For those considering a purchase, I used my pair for light tasks, cutting open bags and such. When I went to cut the ends off a small bunch of flowers on Easter, they broke.
A pair of scissors actually broke...right where the handle meets the blade...cutting dainty flower stems. Close inspection reveals to me what appears to be a major design flaw, and questionable quality steel.
Well, back to my old, beat up, unsightly, decades old pair of Wiss' that would probably cut through a toaster.
*edited the holiday...derp*
That.... Is ridiculous 😳
Thanks for the heads up.
This must be the weld point between the handles and the blades that was being discussed by @toxic and @TheIzzardKing 7 weeks back...
Mine arrived. It's clear the mechanism is carefully designed to be functional while constructed from cheap off the shelf parts. Which is not necessarily a mark against it, it reduces costs and allows for greater quality at a low cost point. It has dried on polishing compound left in the nooks and crannies, which is a pain to wash out.
What surprised me is that the pin is spring loaded, so it forces the blades together. Normally shears are bent so that the blades push themselves together, but this causes them to wear out quickly. In this case an ordinary lock washer is used as a spring in the pin. As a result, when taking it apart you hear a distinct metallic click as the spring releases and the blades come apart. This lock washer has an ordinary oxide coating on it and I assume it will be the first thing to rust, and anything it touches will probably start to rust as well. If you could get the pin off you could replace it with another lock washer from the hardware store.
It's not necessary for them to use a lock washer here, I'm sure the company could find a stainless wave spring that fit perfectly fine, but maybe they were a bit overzealous in counting pennies - or just not very good at design: https://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=wave+washer&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=&rmvSB=true
The pin does not hold the shears precisely. The tips of the shears are not perfectly even (mine are about 1mm off), so you can't cut certain things right at the tips of the shears, if that is something you ever need to do. In theory, if the hole were drilled to fit the pin better with a drilling jig to get the tips in the right places, this needn't be an issue.
All in all, I say the main thing that justifies the price of these (to some people) is the fact that they are solid metal. You are paying for metal, and partly for design but not for a really good design. If you hoped these would go in the dishwasher, I am skeptical that the temper of the blades and spring washer will endure that very well, let alone without rusting. The design is thought-out, but not very well and not the best in execution either. Ultimately, shears that weren't thick solid stainless steel could be cheaper, have a better mechanism, and last longer. As it is though, it will probably last longer than most grocery store shears or shears with pot metal handles.
The cheaper one from Amazon is not forged steel read the q&a.. Not the same at all. Forged steel is much stronger And higher quality just as with knives.
I’ve been using these for a year and really like them. I don’t use them for heavy tasks often, but they are still very sharp. Last night, I used them to spatchcock a chicken for the grill and they breezed through all the layers, leaving a straight cut through skin, muscle, and bone straight up both sides of the spine. Before and after cooking;
That is alarming. I'm not an expert, but I'm not sure delamination is the cause. I would expect the surface of the fracture to be more black if that were the case. It could also be that it is work hardened during the forming process and got too cold while forming or something, and eventually become brittle. It's a big stress riser in the design.
keantokenI'm leaning toward delamination, or other de-something (whatever something they used to fuse pieces together). Because if it was a single piece of steel, it wold break in a completely different manner - after reaching failure point it breaks completely with a high pitch click and the piece that broke apart flies away.
Dishwasher thermal cycling has been found to decrease hardness, just at a very slow rate. Knives that are very hard are not affected as much as knives that are only hardened a bit. Hard knives can withstand thousands of cycles before losing a few points RWC.
But since these shears are stainless steel and not hardened, there is no temper to lose. Being stainless steel, they will resist edge corrosion better than high carbon steels which corrode faster.
LittleratThose ones are not one piece, they have a riveted on blade that can come loose. These are solid and one piece... Shears with rivets tend to loosen over time.
NomisRThe best? A low speed water wheel with a proper angle guide is my choice for scissors
But short of that? I'd recommend a fine diamond plate (will stay flatter than any stones), a steady hand, and touching up with just a few light strokes often.
Easier to maintain an edge than set a new one (cheaper too, as you won't need multiple grits that way)
Keep the bevel angle exactly as is from the factory.
Sharpen the bevel only, never touch the flat inside faces of the blade.
Gentle and even strokes for equal grinding along the entire length of the blade.
Before use, remove the burr:
Depending on the construction of the scissors, if you can get them closed without the blades touching (by applying pressure with your opposite hand to keep the blades apart until they're closed), do that then open them, repeat 2 or 3 times.
If they're too tight to allow that, then remove burr by dragging each blade through a cork, or into the end grain of a soft wood, to remove the burr before re-assembly
NomisRtbh there is probably a knife sharpener in your area. You should just use them unless you feel like picking up a skill.
I shave with a straight razor and sharpen my own blade, so here's what you would need: a set of sharpening stones (shapton a good brand), a stone holder so they don't slide all over the place while you're using them, and a dia-flat lapping plate (plate steel with industrial diamonds on it). You use the stones on the blade (scissors, knife, straight razor, whatever), then you use the lapping plate to keep the stones in good shape.
The last thing you need is some instrucitonal videos