Little Dot MK IV SE Headphone Amplifiersearch

Little Dot MK IV SE Headphone Amplifier

Little Dot MK IV SE Headphone Amplifier

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I have a like-new LD MK IVSE that is in perfect working order, no defects, you can still get them
how many requests do we need to get it active?
I'm really looking forward to this drop.
Has anyone received their replacement unit yet? I know a lot people had DOA units or other problems. My left channel was dead. After paying to ship my unit back, it has been 2 months. I have not heard from Massdrop yet. Not pleased. I think Little Dot rushed this order and did not QC the units. Not only did my unit have a dead channel it has cosmetic damage all over it.
I have a like-new LD MK IVSE that is in perfect working order, no defects, less than 10 hours use. I am looking to sell for $400.
Last time was $299 free shipping. What happened ??
If you look about.... you can still get them for $299 - just not from MASSDROP
That is the standard version. This is the SE. The picture they put up for that ebay listing must have been a mistake. That is the SE I did think it was sort of odd that this drop started off so high compared to the last couple for the MK IVSE.
Finally got my Little Dot MK IV SE from Mass drop. Dead left channel. marks on the bottom. The brass ring on top is all marked up. I swapped tubes, dacs, cables, fuses, headphones. The left channel is DEAD!
Wow, I was thrown off by the lack of warranty but the more you write about the problems makes me glad I went with a Valhalla 2. Good luck with your mods though
Thanks, all done & buttoned up & playing. How do you like that Schiit?
It's great. I picked up a Modi 2 Uber as well and everything I've thrown at them has sounded fantastic.
Just received my replacement LD MkIV se. The input & output jacks are wired correctly, but I notice that it too has the warped PCB. See my previous post for a picture. Guess that's the way most are made. It's not right & I will strip mine down & get the right length stand offs & clean the solder flux off the board. I resent having to do this, but at least I will have peace of mind when done. This gave me the opportunity to remove the lock on the phones jack too, before it causes an accident. I've included a picture. Regarding the bent PCB, the tube sockets are 7/16" tall & the PCB stand-offs are 11/32". The tube sockets don't extend through the holes in the top, so the PCB bends when the screws are tightened. It may last a long time like that, but mine is getting longer stand-offs. Cleaned off the solder flux too, so that was a big relief. It is corrosive, so it had to go! I'd be curious if all of these units were made with the short stand-offs. I'd like to see inside of an older one that was not made to fill the MD order. These may be using a different tube sockets. Ones that don't fit through the hole in the case or are just taller. Longer stand-offs should take care of it. kev

Update; I added washers under the stand-offs to make their height match the tube sockets. It went back together OK until I tried to install the front panel. It seems that the PCB/standoff dimensions is correct & the tube sockets are either too high or too big around to fit the holes in the top of the case. I got the front panel on, but I don't like that the PCB is now stressed in the front.
Solution 1. Replace tube sockets with shorter or narrower sockets. Solution 2. Enlarge the holes in the top of the case to allow the tube sockets to stick through. I am probably going with the second solution. P.S. I hope anyone reading this doesn't think I am overly obsessing about the bent PCB, but my background in engineering & R&D sees this as a serious breaking of the rules of quality assembly. PCBs are not generally made to be bent to this degree,or at all! It will likely fail at some point. I hope for everyone else's sake that it doesn't, but mine is going to be made right one way or another. This thing does sound nice though. I have to give the electrical engineer credit here. It's the mechanical engineer that is to blame. BTW I think you should be able to disable the locking phone jack without opening the unit up. Not sure if the wires are long enough. I can elaborate if anyone wants to do it. It's easy. Update: If anyone cares??? I finally enlarged the tube holes in the chassis to accommodate the tube sockets. Used a Dremel, but ended up finishing with a course file. The large holes need to be a bit over 1" & the smaller ones about 3/4". I thought that I could use the brass plate as a guide, but the large holes need to be a bit larger than the holes in the brass cover & the small holes a bit smaller. Anyway, it's all back together & working, with a flat, unbent, PCB. One of the hardest parts is learning how to maneuver the wires to get the board out & then to get it back in. When you get the wires arranged properly, the PCB assy. comes out & goes in smoothly. Glad that's over, as it was bugging me that the unit just wasn't right. The amp is much happier now. I would like to tell you that it sounds much better with an unstressed PCB, but I really can't tell a difference. ;) Also enjoying the non-locking jack.
Regards, kev
Just curious, does anyone here see any advantage to the locking phone jack? I am considering disabling the lock, if I can.
Just received yesterday. Some scratchs on the case (see photos) but it's OK. Working well (no clicks or audio failures) with a Beyerdynamic DT990-600Ohms headphone (gain dipswitchs = 5, volume knob 30-40).


Mine had light scratches in the same areas. Pretty much anywhere you look you can find some blemishes. I will see if my replacement unit is the same.
Well had mine for 24 hrs now and everything is fine. I'm using my Emotiva DC-1 or Chord Mojo to feed it and it sounds pretty damn good driving my HD-650's. I'm going on 20 hrs of burn in now and the sound is getting less harsh. Let's see what happens at the 200 hrs of burn in. Does anyone know how long it takes to burn in new tubes? I've purchased a couple different driver tubes to test after I get to 200 hrs of burn in.
See ( ). The reviewer takes it through stages of burn in. I've read at little dot's site that, if your going to do a burn in, you should play to headphones for 8h then let it rest for 30 minutes, repeat.
Good News! My replacement unit arrived today and all is well. Check out the picture. I'm wondering if others got one with lowercase 'mk' on the front panel.
Not trying to take away any focus from the people having issues nor to gloat but certainly there have to be some people out there on this drop like me who have yet to experience any problems and are so far happy with their purchase... haven't had any issues (knock on wood) everything is the way it should and sounds great out of the box.... looking forward to getting more time with it and some burn in see if it can sound any better... What DACs are you guys using? so far im just using my Aune X1s and it sounds pretty good (only been able to test on my beyer DT990 600 ohm and AKG K7xx...both of which sound great but the DT990's sound AWESOME) but im looking into saving up a bit to get something in the lines of an Audio-gd NFB-1DAC, audio-gd DAC-19 (really leaning towards trying out an r2r while they are still being made) or perhaps a schiit bifrost MB. There were just so many stories so far about the problems unfortunately being had i thought it might good to hear from some people who have had positive experiences with this drop. I hope you guys with issues get them worked out in a timely fashion.
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I have 600 Ohm cans and it sounds great with the lowest setting and has plenty of volume. I had to up the gain on setting on the Little Dot MK III.
I've been using 10 with my dt990 600 and sounds great
Anyone heard back yet from MD about warranty requests?
Nothing yet.
Just a quick update that I have been working with MD directly on resolving the issue. Bekah had me document the steps I have taken to isolate the problem and has given me some options to consider to include a refund or replacement. Once MD got engaged the response was quick and pleasant. Still a MD fan.
Now I doubt these were even made by Little Dot. I'm not looking forward to opening my package on Tuesday. If it has any of the issues mentioned I'll be sending it back and requesting a refund. This drop has been fishy from the get go.
Mine arrived today & it's going back. Headphone volume is at max with vol. control at 0. Vol control doesn't change the volume. Seems to work as a unity gain preamp, as the volume control works normally at the RCA outputs. One RCA input jack wasn't tightened & I had to open the back to tighten it. Peeking in, I noticed that the PCB has an awkward bend in it. Looks like the standoffs they used are too short & the tube sockets are bending the board in the middle. I used a flashlight to peek into the holes in the bottom & could see that they didn't bother to clean any of the solder flux off the board. This flux can break down the solder & it becomes a crumbly mess that doesn't conduct any longer. It has to be cleaned out & everything resoldered. Basically you have to remove all the components on the board, remove all the degraded solder, clean the board & resolder all components & hope no other damage was done. I have sent an email to support, so will see what they say. From what I see, I no longer want this thing. It looks like they threw these together to meet the demand of this drop & didn't send them through QC. Think maybe it's because they don't have to honor the warranty? Hmmm. Thanks, signed very disappointed P.S. Here you can see the pcb & how it is warped by the way it's mounted. The standoffs are shorter than the tube sockets. This can't be good for the board & is a sign of very poor workmanship.
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Go to your transactions, find the listing for the amp and then --> 'contact support' --> 'issue with order' --> 'defective/warranty issues'........ That being said, is there a cell phone or wireless router near the amp?? Or are you using your phone as the media player?? If this is your situation you could try moving the wireless device(s) away from the amp. I have also noticed that my older Imac makes a lot of noise from the wireless keyboard/mouse. My solution for that particular noise problem was to use my macbook air as the source.
Swap the tubes. Does the clicking follow the swap? If so, you've got a bad tube. Use a clean cloth when pulling/reseating the tubes.

Just picked it up from the post office... Mine has the SE on the front....
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Please let us know what they have to say.
Doing an exchange.
Exciting news, group! We’re happy to report that all of the orders have been shipped out and are now on the way to you! Please allow 24-48 hours for tracking to get into the shipper's system and start updating.
If there’s anything else we can do to make your Massdrop experience better, feel free to contact us via “Contact Support” button in your transaction page:
Mine has the SE sticker on the back of the unit but does not have the SE part on the front. Wondering if anyone got one with SE on the front? Ah snap, the Volume label is botched too.... what to do?
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Finally heard back from MD. Bekah M needs to reach out to their product specialist & will get back to me. Apparently they have a high volume of inquiries.
Well saw the bit about swapping the input & output causing the problem that I have. Volume control does not attenuate the signal. That was indeed the issue, so the input/output jacks are either mislabeled or connected backwards. Mine has the RCAs nearest the edge marked as input. I still have an issue with the bent pcb & solder flux on the board. Either of these will likely cause the unit to fail in the future.
WoooHooo. Mine just showed up in town. Estimated delivery was friday, but looks like i'll be getting it tomorrow! Can't wait... my first tube amp... have an audio-gd SS amp and currently using an Aune X1s as my DAC but i'm looking at either a schiit bitfrost or Audio-gd NFB-1DAC.. current headphones are Beyer DT990 600 ohm, AKG K7xx, AT M50x, T-Peos H-300... Next i would like to give some planar hp's a try with my SS amp... most likely some hifiman (he500/560) or audeze lcd2. Anyone have a favorite dac they would care suggest?
Mine arrived today! Listening to it now. As awesome or better than my Little Dot MK III. Think this will drive my Beyer T1 600 ohms better than its little brother did. Using a Peachtree Audio DAC iTx for the DAC and I am very pleased with its performance. Notice the size difference between the III and IV -- that was a big surprise.
If anyone purchased this out of impulse and wants to sell unopened package let me know. I missed this drop by couple of days.
I'd still like to know why Massdrop is only offering a 1 year warranty when the manufactures warranty is 2 years. The reason I ask is because MD posted in the Mojo drop the following statement. Hi All, Just want to clarify how sourcing a product works. When we determine that a product is desirable to our members we first reach out to manufacturers to see if they're interested in doing a drop. Often they are, sometimes they are not, and sometimes we don't hear back. We'll then usually reach out to the main distributor of the product and again, they may or may not be interested. Failing that, we're pretty often approached by retailers who are sitting on inventory of a product and have noticed there's a demand on our platform for the product that want to work with us to sell it. The only potential issue arising from this is warranty coverage, and we have a policy of offering warranty coverage through Massdrop for the same duration as the manufacturers warranty, in this case 1 year from date of purchase.
MD please explain why you're not following your own policy.
I hate to say it but this is the exact reason that I pulled out of the drop and asked for a refund. I like Massdrop but they really screwed up on this one. They have given no reason for the drop in coverage by Little Dot or the reduction in warranty by them. They couldn't even tell me who/where they would be getting service done in the event of a warranty claim. I think that the Little Dot manufacturer told them he was dropping them from warranty coverage AFTER the last drop but the burden is on Massdrop to make this issue right. Closely watching this thread to decide if ANY massdrop backed products are worth buying OR recommending. It's really disappointing
Our vendor has informed us that the bulk shipment was picked up on Tuesday, and it is currently en route to our warehouse! Transit time typically takes about a week, so we are expecting to receive the order by early next week. Once received, our warehouse team will work hard to turn around your individual orders as quickly as possible.
Expect an update from us by the end of the day Pacific Time on 1/26 or sooner if something comes up.
Our vendor has informed us that inventory will become available to them within the next few days. They will be working hard to prepare this order for shipment and aim to send it from their location by the end of the week. We are currently trending for everything to be shipped out of our warehouse before the estimated ship date of 1/26.
Expect an update from us by the end of the day Pacific Time on 1/20 or sooner if something comes up.
@ArthurM Today is the 13th any update?
OK, on the Little Dot web site, you can read that the waranty is 2 years (only for the SE version). So, Massdrop must stay with the 2 years waranty, as they sold to us!
Hi everyone,
Further information on the one year warranty can be seen here on our FAQ:
Where on that page is there anything about Warranties? Maybe I'm missing something
I wonder how this amp will sound with a pair of Yamaha HS8?
Shortening the warranty from 2 years to 1 year after the drop is very troublesome.