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Product Description
A nice watch is only made better with a nice strap to match. Made from Horween Derby Leather—a vegetable-tanned full-grain leather that’s heavily stuffed with waxes and fats—these straps are supple and resistant to the elements Read More
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***Attention: I will be leaving the country for 1 month on July 7. If you have any issues, please let me know ASAP, so that I may remedy them before I leave. ***
Your keeper may initially be a little tight on your strap. This is to prevent them from stretching too much and becoming loose once the keeper breaks in. It may be a little difficult to use at first, but this is normal.
Hand back-stitching for a cleaner look:
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Punching tang holes:
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Buckle ends ready to be cut:
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Marking stitch lines and beveling edges:
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Making Keepers:
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Making Strips and creasing them for keepers:
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Installing Buckles:
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The Beast:
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Burnishing edges:
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Japanese seaweed being cooked down to use for burnishing:
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Hello Everyone! I would like to thank everyone that participated in this drop. I truly appreciate your support! I will be shipping your straps to Massdrop on Tuesday, June 20th. You should be getting them shortly after that I would imagine. I will be uploading progress pics as I go:
Skiving the lug portion:
My strap arrived today. It was mostly what I ordered, but there was a major boo-boo done in assembly.
I requested a 21mm lug / 20mm buckle width to accommodate the odd-size of my Hamilton Team Earth. I got a strap of correct size, but an 18mm buckle was squeezed on it. Now I understand that the leather is supple, but that does not mean that a 20mm wide opposite end of the strap is ever going to fit through that buckle.
Now in my parts box, I have a 24mm/20mm taper strap with a close-match style buckle in 20mm, so I transplanted that. Perfect fit. But I still feel as if I am owed a correct 20mm buckle here.
Edit (11/2/2017): Vulture_Premium came-through and sent me a replacement 20mm buckle. Arrived today. Thanks!
FYI: Massdrop customer helpdesk contacted me on Monday (after Vulture_Premium reached out to me here) and wanted photos of the problem before they were taking action. Heads-up for anybody who is forced to work that method for some other drop where the maker isn't watching the drop at all. At least they did write back.
BF_HammerI am quite pleased with the end result on my Hamilton watch. Some pics with the transplanted buckle. Very reminiscent of the old Hirsch Liberty straps from a decade ago.
BF_HammerHorween Derby is full grain, i.e. the top surface of the hide, the skin side. Hirsch Liberty uses "sturdy saddle leather from the back of the skin," which sounds like a way of saying top grain, which, despite the name, is not the top side of split leather, but the layer underneath the top, full-grain layer. So in theory, the materials used by Vulture are higher quality, or at least more expensive, since there may be functional reasons to us top grain over full grain in some applications.
Hirsch lacquers the edges of the Liberty, which is cleaner looking, but if you maintain the edges of the Vulture straps they will be fine and many prefer the more authentic edges.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPLnTMSyi68
I understand the price is pretty steep. Unfortunately, I can't compete with the big guys on price.
I am a little one man operation using premium materials in small quantities. All of that doesn't exactly add up to efficiency, let alone the bulk discounts that larger manufacturers can meet, but I love what I do. Some folks like the idea of a weirdo secreted away in his workshop making leather items for them well into the night. I completely understand that not everyone feels this way, nor should they.
I could try and feed y'all a line of BS about handcrafted , artisinal, small batch, watch straps made beneath the light of a full moon on the peak of Mount Fuji serenaded by a chorus of virgin snow monkeys or whatever, but all of that is intangible unless it is reflected in the final product.
I would say my process allows for the wide array of lengths and lug widths/ tapers that I am able to offer, as well as the material choice and manner in which these straps are assembled.
It isn't efficient to offer so many lengths and lug widths/tapers because of the time required to set each up, especially for a new length. Being a tiny manufacturer, I am much more flexible in that area.
As a leather fanatic, I have accumulated about 20 different kinds of leathers from various tanneries around the world.
Horween Derby is my #1 choice for straps because it is strong yet supple, extremely resistant to the elements, and has a great character to it.
Finally, these straps are Derby inside and out, as each side of the strap is made from a single piece of leather folded around the lugs and then again around the buckle, in the case of the buckle side. Larger manufacturers will use a cheaper material as the liner or something synthetic. I love the simplicity and strength of the method I use, and prefer it over using a separate liner as it results in a nice thick and comfortable strap.
I truly feel that my straps surpass the quality of most out there, but at the end of the day its just a piece of leather that holds your watch to your wrist.
This rant isn't directed at you Erase, I just wanted to use this as an opportunity to share a bit about my process and motivations.
Here's a peak into my little workshop. Y'all may find it interesting:
Vulture_PremiumThanx for the info and pictures!The problem I have is by the time this actually gets to me in Canada it will cost around 130$ CAD.I wouldn't ever pay that for a strap, they do however look like a quality product :)
Thought I would point out that Horween leather is made in Chicago. American made. Too, I have Allen Edmonds and Alden's shoes made of Horween Horsehide Cordovan ( 1 pair black and one pair cordovan COLOR.) The shoes are 25-30 years young, and STILL look better than new. My uncle had a pair that was almost 50 years old when he passed. They were refurbished by the company once but still looked better than many "just bought today" pairs of quality shoes.
With a little care they keep getting better looking with age. I have other Horween leather products that are 10 plus years old and look exactly as I want them to. The Point- YES Horween brand leather products may seem more expensive. Especially true in this day and age of being able to buy watch straps ( or whatever) on the net from all makers. BUT- they pay for themselves in looks and last for years. ( Btw, of the 3-4 Horween watch straps I already own, this is the best price I have seen by far. I do recall I have one that is a slightly different style I paid 125.00 for about 7 years ago.)
You just have to decide if the price and quality works for you at this point in time. Respects to all. too, if this has already been discussed, I apologize. Though I have been on the drop some months now I have just started actually exploring the communities.
JohnGOhioWell said. I would just add that, in my opinion, there are three pioneers in the USA leather tanning business.
1. Horween Leather Co.
2. Herman Oak Leather Co.
3. Wicket and Craig Leather Co.
These companies use the finest hides available and you will no find a better quality finished leather on the planet . Maybe as good, but not better. It is worth it to spend a bit extra to get this grade of leather as the item will get better with age and last a lifetime+. I have shoes, saddles and bags made from the various companies, some over 50 years old and they look better now than when new. Kudos to Will at Vulture Premium for using the good stuff!!
AznD85yeah, that's exactly what it is. the color is really beautiful. it's a nice, rich, reddish brown. the leather is really suplle, but also very thick, so it's going to be super comfortable and last forever.
Has anyone bought both the Vulture Premium Tochigi and Horween Derby straps? What's the difference between them? Are the Horween Derby straps noticably thicker, or about the same? How do they wear over time? What is the surface texture like?
I have a Tochigi, so I'd like a comparison to that.
I like them better than "professionally produced" straps. They have a definite feel of real, quality leather, no stamped textures, no painted edges, relatively thick.
(By the way, I hate that I cannot use the word "genuine" in conversations about leather, because it has bee coopted by the "Genuine Leather" grade, which means coarse, deep, cheap leather glued together and pressed and stamped ... i.e., "genuine leather" now means "cheap 'leather'".