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Raidops Blue Shark M390 Folding Knife
01 / 07
Raidops Blue Shark M390 Folding Knife
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Product Description
This beefy little wharncliffe from Raidops is primed for heavy duty cuts and slices. Though, at full length, it measures just over 6 inches, the Blue Shark is nice and thick to fill the hand Read More
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keyboard_arrow_downfhood
715
Sep 18, 2018
"Carbon fiber/titanium alloy"
I am going to choose to believe that the handle is some magical alloy of carbon fiber and titanium
I am going to choose to believe that the handle is some magical alloy of carbon fiber and titanium
kangster
85
Sep 18, 2018
fhoodone plate is titanium one plate is carbon
(ok ok i know its probably just a joke, but in case you wondered! ;-)
I would have preferred if both plates were carbon personally, with steel or titanium inserts for titanium screws and pins - now that'd be a magic i'd.. buy lol
I would have preferred if both plates were carbon personally, with steel or titanium inserts for titanium screws and pins - now that'd be a magic i'd.. buy lol
Seetreets
0
Sep 17, 2018
A few months ago the Raidops Aquillo was on drop. Much bettwr blade, better pricing. It didn't make the drop surprisingly. Bring that back and I'm in and suggest everyone else get in on that. Not familiar with this model.
bookworm13
677
Sep 18, 2018
SeetreetsThe Aquillo is S30V steel so I guess you're saying the blade geometry on that matches your use better.
The Blue Shark has an M390 blade which mostly explains the price difference since it is a much higher grade of steel. It's also almost half the weight of the Aquillo which is important to me.
Seems kinda odd to me that your dissing this drop for another model.
The Blue Shark has an M390 blade which mostly explains the price difference since it is a much higher grade of steel. It's also almost half the weight of the Aquillo which is important to me.
Seems kinda odd to me that your dissing this drop for another model.
Kavik
5531
Sep 18, 2018
SeetreetsYeah..... The Aquillo is a totally different knife
Not "better pricing", LOWER pricing, for much less expensive materials and completely different profiles
M390 vs S30V, Carbon Fiber vs G10.....and thank God no cheap steak knife looking serrations on this one, or i would've passed on what turned out to be one of my favorite knives!
If you're looking for a cheaper knife, nothing wrong with that, but you're comparing apples to oranges here
If you're looking for a cheaper knife, nothing wrong with that, but you're comparing apples to oranges here
HandstandsMcGoo
59
Sep 17, 2018
I really love the size of this knife.
I like the look for the most part, but does it honestly say “Firmly fixed bolt, do not adjust“? That would be like a T-shirt having the washing instructions printed on the front of the shirt. What were they thinking?
The comments from the previous drop also concern me. Seem to be fit and finish issues.
If I knew the lockbar, stop pin, and detent were done well, and if it didn’t have the pivot instructions engraved on the outside of the frame, this would be a no brainer. Maybe in the future these issues will be addressed, I’ll be the first one to buy it.
I like the look for the most part, but does it honestly say “Firmly fixed bolt, do not adjust“? That would be like a T-shirt having the washing instructions printed on the front of the shirt. What were they thinking?
The comments from the previous drop also concern me. Seem to be fit and finish issues.
If I knew the lockbar, stop pin, and detent were done well, and if it didn’t have the pivot instructions engraved on the outside of the frame, this would be a no brainer. Maybe in the future these issues will be addressed, I’ll be the first one to buy it.
Kavik
5531
Sep 17, 2018
HandstandsMcGooLol yes, it honestly says that on the handle.
I thought I remembered reading something about this knife being inspired by some battleship or something, in which case the printed warnings kind of fit the theme.... But I can't seem to find that now, so I might be remembering wrong.
Either way, one way gives me a chuckle, and on the other hand it never ever ever catches my attention, and I carry this knife a LOT.
I'm kind of assuming it was my QC concerns you're taking about? If so, let me just say the concerns aren't unfounded...but I also want to say it's been pointed out many times that I'm way too particular about detent issues lol the stuff I was fussing over, many people never would have even seen as a problem. And the alterations I made, i can't stress enough how small they were. I'm not at home where I can measure, but if I had to guess I'd say I filed down the pin like .005" to correct the issue, if that.....and taking into account the distance between the stop pin and the detent hole, that probably means it could've also been fixed by them moving the detent hole out by about .001"
That's a tiny, tiny amount... Most likely within spec, and at least close enough that another one from that batch might have been exactly perfect even to my standards lol
I'm kind of assuming it was my QC concerns you're taking about? If so, let me just say the concerns aren't unfounded...but I also want to say it's been pointed out many times that I'm way too particular about detent issues lol the stuff I was fussing over, many people never would have even seen as a problem. And the alterations I made, i can't stress enough how small they were. I'm not at home where I can measure, but if I had to guess I'd say I filed down the pin like .005" to correct the issue, if that.....and taking into account the distance between the stop pin and the detent hole, that probably means it could've also been fixed by them moving the detent hole out by about .001"
That's a tiny, tiny amount... Most likely within spec, and at least close enough that another one from that batch might have been exactly perfect even to my standards lol
Sbend
45
Sep 17, 2018
I like this quite a lot as a neck knife. MD should really offer the Kydex neck sheath as an option when running this drop. I had to order mine direct from Korea. I have experienced some lock stick, but some graphite-moly powder got rid of that.
Unwisefool
480
Sep 17, 2018
I like the looks of this knife but it's just too small unfortunately, if they could make it with a 3.2-3.6" blade that would be great
DrBlazer
61
Sep 19, 2018
I'll let you know how the Tactical Geek is after I receive it and play with it & use it for a few days.
As far as the Kershaw Chive, I liked it enough that I will bought a Scallion not long after and that was not nearly as good for me. It never snapped open like my Chive and the tip broke not long after buying it. I still have it, but it's just been sitting in a drawer for the last 10 years.
I'm glad to see MD bringing this RaidOps back. Is love to see more compact folders on here for a good price and this definitely is one of them.
As far as the Kershaw Chive, I liked it enough that I will bought a Scallion not long after and that was not nearly as good for me. It never snapped open like my Chive and the tip broke not long after buying it. I still have it, but it's just been sitting in a drawer for the last 10 years.
I'm glad to see MD bringing this RaidOps back. Is love to see more compact folders on here for a good price and this definitely is one of them.
DrBlazer
61
Sep 26, 2018
Well, I've had the Tactical Geek Variable X for about 5 days and so far I like it a lot. It has very good action for a flipper it's size. Even when I press down as gently as possible it opens about 90% full. I've never had it not fully open anytime I've truly pressed down on the flipper and at this point I've probably done that 1,000 times, lol. I seriously love this little guy. It's very difficult to see how well the blade is centered because of its shape and being single bevel. That being said, it looks so interesting seeing the different angles of the blade. It truly is a joy to play with and look at and examine from different angles. I've only used it to open boxes and envelopes, but it has done very well for me. I like it enough that considering there's only about 50 in each color, I want to buy another one. If the the vintage blue colored one on their website was available for $200 Is but it right now. I would've bought the regular blue originally, but I couldn't find it from one of the stores I typically buy from and Blade HQ have the black and the grey on sale for a decent amount less, more than 25%, than the blue was and the black plus grey is.
This far I can't say how well it will holding long-term, but so far it seems very good and I love the way it looks. I love the size and the ergonomics is better than I thought they would be, but I wasn't expecting the ergonomics to be great. The blade arrived hair slicing sharp on both parts of the blade. I'm very satisfied with my purchase (#07/50). I just hope I can get one in vintage blue for a decent amount less money than their website because that shade of blue and purple with patina looks amazing to me. With most knives I'm not into the loud and in your face colors, but with it's small size and modern looks I think this will look incredible in that "Vintage Blue". Heck, I imagine regular "PVD Blue" looks pretty darn good because this is a little knife that is made to standout in the crowd.
This far I can't say how well it will holding long-term, but so far it seems very good and I love the way it looks. I love the size and the ergonomics is better than I thought they would be, but I wasn't expecting the ergonomics to be great. The blade arrived hair slicing sharp on both parts of the blade. I'm very satisfied with my purchase (#07/50). I just hope I can get one in vintage blue for a decent amount less money than their website because that shade of blue and purple with patina looks amazing to me. With most knives I'm not into the loud and in your face colors, but with it's small size and modern looks I think this will look incredible in that "Vintage Blue". Heck, I imagine regular "PVD Blue" looks pretty darn good because this is a little knife that is made to standout in the crowd.
OmegaMullet
41
Jul 27, 2018
Nice, a good way to fix lockstick is by taking a pencil and rubbing some graphite on the lockbar.
But yeah, I also have a raidops mini centauro and love it. It checks many of the boxes the blue shark misses.
But yeah, I also have a raidops mini centauro and love it. It checks many of the boxes the blue shark misses.
Kavik
5531
Jul 27, 2018
OmegaMulletOthers have suggested that as well, but I keep forgetting to try it for some reason lol I'll do that today.
But I think on a knife in this price range, a steel insert should be a standard feature.
Oooh, I hadn't seen that one before, I do like the looks of that!
Oooh, I hadn't seen that one before, I do like the looks of that!
Kavik
5531
Jun 18, 2018
Does anyone else here have any comments they can share on either the detent or the pivot screw loosening up or being cemented in place?
I ask as a result of the day and night difference between GeorgeMX's experience and mine
His blade loosened up after a day, my pivot needed heat from a soldering iron and a ton of force to break loose. (whatever was on this bolt was sort of a grayish white. Not red, and certainly not the blue they used on the t6 body screws)
Regarding the detent, here's what I've found: The lockbar has plenty of strength to it, but the detent ball doesn't fully seat in the hole when the knife is closed. You can see a large gap when viewed from the side while closed, just the very tip of the ball goes in)
After disassembly I did an experiment. Took out the stop pin, reassembled, and carefully closed the blade. At this point the detent ball was fully seated in the hole and the blade would not shake open no matter how hard I tried. But opening with the middle finger flick was still nice and easy, and the blade springs out much more solidly every time.
The problem though, is that when the detent is fully engaged the blade is so far in the handle that the tip just barely makes contact with the backspacer. Note the difference by the arrows below :
Stock-
Stop pin removed -
Easiest way would be grinding out the finger choil a little further so the blade closes further before it hits the stop pin, but then I need to also remove material from the backspacer for clearance and re-anodize that. Removing material from the stop pin would have the same drawback with the backspacer..... So, I guess drilling out the detent hole in the blade is the way to go in this case? Do I just use a larger drill bit and drill on center? I'm worried if I try with the same size moved up just a hair, the bit is going to just walk back into the original hole. (I have a decent drill press, not doing this by hand... But still, small bits flex, and runout is a thing)
If anyone here has experience doing that, I'd love to hear it
Regarding the detent, here's what I've found: The lockbar has plenty of strength to it, but the detent ball doesn't fully seat in the hole when the knife is closed. You can see a large gap when viewed from the side while closed, just the very tip of the ball goes in)
After disassembly I did an experiment. Took out the stop pin, reassembled, and carefully closed the blade. At this point the detent ball was fully seated in the hole and the blade would not shake open no matter how hard I tried. But opening with the middle finger flick was still nice and easy, and the blade springs out much more solidly every time.
The problem though, is that when the detent is fully engaged the blade is so far in the handle that the tip just barely makes contact with the backspacer. Note the difference by the arrows below :
Stock-
Stop pin removed -
Easiest way would be grinding out the finger choil a little further so the blade closes further before it hits the stop pin, but then I need to also remove material from the backspacer for clearance and re-anodize that. Removing material from the stop pin would have the same drawback with the backspacer..... So, I guess drilling out the detent hole in the blade is the way to go in this case? Do I just use a larger drill bit and drill on center? I'm worried if I try with the same size moved up just a hair, the bit is going to just walk back into the original hole. (I have a decent drill press, not doing this by hand... But still, small bits flex, and runout is a thing)
If anyone here has experience doing that, I'd love to hear it
Gunnersmate2
1646
Sep 17, 2018
KavikThanks for sharing a detailed experience with the knife that's being dropped. This, imo, is what these forums are for.
GeorgeMX
113
Jun 17, 2018
The frame lock is poorly designed. It's too tight. This is not a matter of breaking it in. It gets completely jammed. Metal on metal grinding. Definitely not worth the purchase. I am reselling it.
GeorgeMX
113
Jun 17, 2018
Thanks for letting me know about easy returns. I have not attempted to open the knife because I will be returning it. I ordered the ferom Forge wing version, so I will be giving mass drop another shot.
Kavik
5531
Jun 18, 2018
GeorgeMXUnderstandable. And I didn't mean for you to open it up, was just wondering if you could re-tighten it with the included torx tool. They don't generally loosen up without the screw being able to turn, ya know?
I finally got mine to break loose today, with heat and way too much pressure. No idea what they used on the pivot, kinda a whitish gray, definitely different from the nice bright blue Loctite on the 6 body screws though.
More details to come in a review later, gotta get back to work for now
I finally got mine to break loose today, with heat and way too much pressure. No idea what they used on the pivot, kinda a whitish gray, definitely different from the nice bright blue Loctite on the 6 body screws though.
More details to come in a review later, gotta get back to work for now
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